The cast iron engine in the TR-2 I mentioned before can easily withstand temps up to nearly 300 degrees without damage due to the ancient design of the engine (originally it was a Massey Ferguson tractor engine!) but my daily driver Civic with an engine designed for maximum efficiency and longevity at 190 degrees F, not so much. Having said all this, I still believe Evans is a great coolant for vintage and antique cars that don't see a lot of use and are prone to overheating. The difference is that it is a 60 year old engine design and the high operating temperature was used to choose the metal in the parts as well as the tolerances of the moving parts. I have even seen 400 degrees F in my airplane engine a couple of times and it has not caused any damage to the engine. It is typical to see head temperatures in excess of 300 degrees F in these engines under normal load. If you have any doubts about my statement above, just look at the operating temperature of an air cooled engine. The interesting thing is that an old engine will not blow up or seize at temps above 212 degrees F, but a modern computer controlled engine may not run well at these temperatures due to the out of range inputs from the sensors to the ECM and the tolerances of parts within the engine. These newer engines were designed to operate in a very narrow operating window for engine temperature and the metallurgy chosen for the parts supports this. A modern car's ECM carefully monitors the temperature of the engine and temps above boiling cause all sorts of input into the ECM in an attempt to keep the engine temperature down which may not be possible when using the Evans coolant. Yes, the above post by Gubi is the reason I said I would be careful using Evans coolant in a modern car. Evans coolant isn't all hype and I wouldn't hesitate to use it again, but I would be very careful with trying it on a car that I couldn't confirm that the cooling system had been completely cleaned of the old coolant. Evans sells a cleaning solution to rid the old coolant from your cooling system, but it amounts to a lot of flushing and you never know if you got rid of all the old coolant or not. This is easy on a fresh restoration when the car has been completely taken apart and everything cleaned, but is nearly impossible on a intact cooling system especially a modern one with all of its hoses and tubes. As I stated before, water is a contaminate when mixed with Evans coolant so it has to be removed from the entire cooling system before the Evans coolant can be installed. The downside to Evans coolant is when you try to use it in a car that has had regular water/coolant mix in it before. The coolant still looks like the day I put it in too so I believe it will last at least 10 years or more as Evans states it will even though mine has seen temperatures close to 260 degrees on more than one occasion. It runs with no pressure and the coolant doesn't boil over when the car overheats (TR-2s overheat in standing traffic all the time with the stock cooling system) so I can pull off the road and shut down without losing coolant, bursting hoses, blowing a head gasket or having to add water/coolant to replace what was lost. I have used it in an old TR-2 since its restoration and the stuff is excellent. This is especially good with engines that are a mix of iron and aluminum parts as well as aluminum radiators. It contains no water (water is actually a contaminate) so it is not corrosive to any metal in the cooling system. If anyone has any experience with this product I would sure like to know about it.You guys missed another advantage to Evans coolant. I am probably going to put it in my car before I do my cross country and back trip, leaving in April. Since the Insight has a tricky non-ferrous engine this Evans stuff would seem a no-brainer to me. If you want the Celsius temp it is exactly the same: -40C. The manufacturer touts it as cheaper in the long run as it never has to be changed, refreshed or replaced. Put the hoses back on, add the gallon of coolant and you are good to go. Use a leaf blower to blow out what remains, fill with prep to absorb any water remaining, drain, blow out and let stand without hoses for a few hours. The reformulated mix for the Insights is ~$45 and the prep ~$35, each is for one gallon. Also as the mixture boils at ~375F you do not need a pressurized cooling system. The attraction that it is waterless and therefore quite unlikely to corrode metals is what gets me. For those unable to discover what it is made of, it is made mostly of propylene glycol and some ethylene glycol and corrosion inhibitors. I am curious if any of the people who discussed using the Evans Waterless Coolant ever did use it.
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